ASHLEY CASTLE (map ref SU385308)
Ashley castle was built in the late 1100s and early 1200s and although not a very interesting place for the casual tourist to visit, it is easy work out the ringwork and bailey, which is the outer courtyard. Once upon a time there was a rectangular building with a round turret about 40 feet in diameter.

It is believed the castle was built by William Briwere, who was granted a licence to fortify a castle in Hampshire in the year 1200.

The castle is immediately south of Ashley Church and to get to the it there are two ways. One is to take a minor road out of King's Somborne following the signposts to Ashley and the other is to come in from Farley Mount but beware as this lane is extremely narrow and is quite often used by local farm vehicles, though there are passing places. Where the road bends right and a footpath to Farley Mount can be seen follow the road and lookout for a bend and stopping when the church is visible.

Although there are no castle buildings or walls there is a sense of tranquility and this is particularly pleasant when you trample through the undergrowth and round the moat, the trees here are covered in Dead Mans Beard and it creates an eerie atmosphere.

BARLEY POUND CASTLE (Map ref SU797468)
South-east of Basingstoke near Bentley
This is another place with nothing much to see, though one can trace a ditch and a circular bank. Large flints, squared stones and traces of mortar can be found quite easily. In the 20th century archaeologists found an 8 inch wall and a masonry keep. But a proper Norman castle did exist on this spot. Stories have it that it may well have been 'Lidelea' which was built by Henry de Blois but nothing official has been recorded to verify this.

BISHOPS WALTHAM PALACE
Bishops Waltham

Built in 1134 by Henry de Blois, the Bishop of Winchester and his brother King Stephen, it was originally a fortified palace. 

The original 'castle' built by Henry de Blois was demolished by Henry II after he succeeded Stephen as King. It was reported that he was trying to restore order after the anarchy of Stephen's reign and any fortified place which may have been used to house rebels was ordered to be destroyed.

Between 1160 to 1180 the Palace was rebuilt on a much grander scale and given back to its lawful owner. The rebuilding made it a more comfortable place with less of the militaristic overtones. In fact Henry found it much more to his liking and held a  council there in 1182 to make plans for a Crusade.

Richard the Lionheart stayed at the palace after his coronation at Winchester and before his departed to what was to be his last crusade in 1194.

The east range was built in the 13th century but most of what can now be seen is 15th century, in the Perpendicular style and constructed during the episcopate of Bishop Langton (1493- 1501). The palace was forfeited by the Bishops during the Reformation, though not as damaged as Henry VIII is believed to have stayed there.

The buildings were all arranged around a quadrangle and there was a square tower of three storeys and a gatehouse.

The Royalists defended it during the Civil War but quickly surrendered, and it was captured by the Parliamentarians on the 9th April 1644. Two days later the palace had been 'slighted', Bishop Curill having escaped to Winchester in a dung cart. Afterwards some of the buildings were repaired and used for farm buildings.

CALSHOT CASTLE
2 miles from Fawley off the B3053
See also Calshot in the Hampshire section

Photo by John Blay
courtesy of Hampshire Life magazine

When Henry VIII feared the threat of French invasion in the 1540s, he ordered the construction of a string of castles and forts along the coast from Cornwall to Kent. Calshot was one of the smaller castles, a stone keep with sheer walls punctuated by a few deep windows, and a moat. Although it was not used in warfare at the time, Calshot played a role in defence up to the 1950s. It guarded the entrance to Southampton Water, and saw most active duty from the 1890s. The Admiralty used Calshot as its seaplane base in World War I, and the RAF took it over for seaplane training after 1918. In World War II it resumed its offensive role, having witnessed the exciting air races for the Schneider trophy in the 1920s and 30s. The RAF finally left in 1953. English Heritage have restored various parts of the castle to their Tudor appearance, others to the late-Victorian barracks. Photographic displays recall the great days of the flying boats.

Many famous people have worked or lived in the area, Marconi lived close to the camp and it was here that he trialed wireless telegraphy from aircraft. Sir Winston Churchill took his first seaplane flight here, piloted by Tommy Sopwith, on 28th August 1913. In 1929, aircraftsman Shaw came to Calshot to work where he helped to develop high speed launches, Shaw will be better known to
you as Lawrence of Arabia, who died in 1935 in a motorcycle accident near his Dorset home.

Actively involved during W.W.II, being the home of the Sunderland Flying Boat, Calshot finally  closed as an air force base on 1st April 1961.
Apr-Sept, daily 10am-6pm. Tel: (0703) 892023.

CARISBROOKE CASTLE
(Isle of Wight

A stone walled fortress was built here by the Romans and some of the stonework can still be seen protruding beneath the Norman earthworks.

The Isle of Wight was given to WIlliam Fitz Osbern, a Norman, by William I in 1071, they were also blood relatives. It was at Wihtgarasburh (Carisbrooke) after the Saxon hero Wihtgar, that he built a wooden motte castle, which stayed with the Fitz Osberns for only a few years, for in 1078 Roger Fitz Osbern rebelled against the King and Carisbrooke Castle was confiscated.

In 1100 the Isle of Wight became the property of Richard de Redvers who was given Christchurch on the mainland at the same time. He died in 1107 and his son, Baldwin de Redvers inherited it. By 1136 Baldwin had almost completed converting the motte castle into stone and was responsible for the magnificent stone keep, which would have been kept for emergencies. Bladwin and his family would have lived in a stone hall in the bailey.

Baldwin was one of the many nobles who rebelled against King Stephen, and the castle was besieged fro three months and the well dried up. The situation was worsened by the King's forces shooting flaming arrows into the castle and the occupants having to use their precious wine supplies to douse the fires!
Baldwin was forced to surrender and was later exiled, though he later gained a pardon and returned to his castle.

A French commando force besieged the castle in 1377, but was unsuccessful. From 1485 onwards the Crown held the castle, each monarch appointing a Captain or Governor of the Island, who was in residence there.

One of the most interesting parts of the history of Carisbrooke Castle was in the Civil War when it was the place of confinement for Charles I. During his stay there the east bailey was made into a bowling green for him. He was confined in the castle for under a year (November 1647 to September 1648) and on a number of occasions attempted to escape. Originally the Governor at the castle had been a Royalist, the Earl of Portland. But after the castle was taken over by the Parliamentary supporter, the Mayor of Newport, and by the time of Charles' incarceration the Governor was Colonel Hammond, a Parliamentarian.

Two notable escape attempts are recorded, the first being that of a Captain Burley, who was captured and executed. The second was Henry Firebrace who arranged for the King at a given signal to let himself down from his window by a cord. Firebrace was then meant to lower the monarch from the curtain wall into a ditch where two men would be waiting for him with a spare horse, and a boat ready to sail at the coast. A remarkable plan but when it was executed Charles' shoulders stuck between the bars of the window in the Great Chamber. After this the Parliamentarians increased their vigilance. On the 6th September, 1648 Charles was taken to the Grammar School at Newport where he was subsequently escorted via Hurst Castle for his trial and execution in London.

Carisbrooke castle is one of the most interesting in the south of England and certainly one of the most complete. When entering through the magnificent gateway yo will see above the entrance Queen Elizabeth I's initials and the date 1598.The gateway which has two drum towers on either side was originally built in 1335 but it was extensively altered in 1598 and the top fancy bits added by the Italian architect, Frederigo Gianibelli who also improved the outer defences.

The castle boasts two wells, one in the bailey and one in the shell keep which is 160 feet deep. The former is in the south-east corner and is a popular item for the tourist, as it is worked by an ancient treadmill and was sometimes operated by donkeys or in some cases prisoners. All the machinery is still intact and one can often find one of the resident donkeys treading the wheel. The wheel is made of oak and chestnut and the donkeys enjoy the experience. One donkey is reputed to have worked the wheel for fifty years!!

The shell keep is the most dominating part of the castle and is reached by an outdoor  stairway of more than sixty steps. A latrine is located near the well, two fireplaces and a latrine tower. The gateway to the keep was added later in 1335.

CHRISTCHURCH CASTLE

Christchurch and Highcliffe Castles were transferred by
bureaucratic action into Dorset in the boundary changes of 1974. But ) they were castles in Hampshire and even though there is a change in countryside and coastline to the west of Bournemouth Christchurch Castle to some will always be where Hardy's Dorset really is.

There are only two ruined buildings left to see of Twynham Castle,
Christchurch Castle's original name. These are the keep and the
Constable's House, next to the river Avon. The castle was built in 1100
by Richard de Redvers.

The keep is oblong and was built on an artificial mound (a motte). Only two walls remain. The walls to the keep were originally 91 thick and the building itself was three storeys high. The view from the top must have been very beautiful and the tower would have dominated the countryside. The remains have been assessed as being early 1300's so had nothing to do with Richard de Redvers.

The hall by the river is more interesting. There is a splendid Norman chimney, latrines over the river and rather ornate arches over the windows on the riverside. The hall measures 67' x 23' and is made of purbeck-marble blocks. It was built (1160) in the time of Baldwin de Redvers who used the castle merely as a stopping place between his other castles at Carisbrooke and Exeter and, therefore, required a bailiff or constable to be in charge in his absence. The main room of the building was on the first floor and the joist-holes are still visible.

Before Baldwin de Redvers had even completed the castle it was in use as a fortress against King Stephen. In 1148 the castle was captured by Walter de Pinkney and in 1153 it was taken again by the King's forces, who had also captured Exeter and Carisbrooke. De Redvers was taken prisoner but escaped and recaptured Twynham Castle.

De Redvers was pardoned in 1154 and his estates were returned. In fact, the new King, Henry II, even made him Earl of Devon.

The castle was almost in continuous use up till 1656. King John held two official courts there. Edward I was Lord of the Manor for a while, declaring in 1307 that Twynham must be securely kept and defended in his absence abroad.

In 1540 the castle was described as being in a poor state and apparently it was being used as a pound for cattle. Nonetheless it played its part in the Civil War when it was held for the King by Sir John Mills for four years. In 1646 it was easily captured by Sir William Waller's Parliamentary troops. No resistance was offered and four hundred prisoners were taken. However, the Royalists still held the town of Christchurch. In 1650 Oliver Cromwell decided the castle should be
destroyed and in 1652 it was demolished.

'The White Company' is a novel by Sir Arthur Conan Doyle which imaginatively describes how the castle was in 1136.

COWES CASTLE 

Cowes Castle was built in 1539 as part of Henry VIII's chain of coastal defences; others in the Solent included Yarmouth, Hurst and Calshot. The roles of Cowes Castle, with its counterpart at East Cowes, were to help prevent invasion of the Island ( it was feared that the Island would be occupied and used as a base for an invasion of England ) and to protect the growing naval dockyard at Portsmouth. Stone from the recently dissolved religious houses of Beaulieu and Quarr was used in the castles' construction.

It was once believed that Cowes took its name from these two so-called 'cow castles' but the placename existed long before the castles were built. However the earlier small settlements of East and West Shamblord were on higher ground inland and it was the protection given by the castles against French raids that allowed the towns on the waterfront to develop. In the 16th century the Island was a noted haunt of pirates and the area was notorious for an occasional floating market at Meadhole ( Osborne Bay ) where they sold their stolen goods.

Cowes castle was a round blockhouse flanked by two rectangular wings, with a semi-circular barbican to the sea and a protective walled ditch to landward; the guns were mounted on the barbican and the roofs of the two storey main tower and one storey wings. However, an inventory of ordnance taken after Henry VIII's death in 1547 shows that the guns on the wings and one each of the pieces on the tower and barbican were 'not hable to serve'. In 1545 Henry had watched from Portsmouth as his flagship Mary Rose sank during a French attack at the east end of the Island, but that was to be the last major French incursion.

The castle was commanded by a Captain, paid 1/= a day during Queen Elizabeth's reign when there was also a Porter at 8d a day and three gunners at 6d a day each. By 1774 when the Captain was Sir John Milles, late Lieutenant Governor of Jersey, the captain's pay had risen to 10/= a day. Apart from his military duties the Captain of Cowes Castle would have had maritime responsibilities, such as boarding foreign ships and inspecting crew and cargo, and his castle was used as a lodging place for important visitors to the Island and as a prison. On Charles I's arrival in 1647 it was full and he had to stay in a common alehouse in the town before proceeding to what was to become his imprisonment at Carisbrooke Castle. The dramatist and Poet Laureate Sir William Davenant ( 1606-1668 ), whom gossip held to be the offspring of Shakespeare, was imprisoned in Cowes Castle in 1650 before being removed to the Tower; he had been captured on his return from a mission to Virginia for Queen Henrietta Maria and was released two years later.
Several surveys show that the castle's walls and foundations were in frequent need of repair due to the inroads of the sea and the ground on which it was built. East Cowes castle had been built on the Shrape mud and by Elizabeth's reign was ruinous; some of the stone was used in a house at Newport and by the 17th century even the site had been lost. An inspection of 1692 recorded 'The walls of Cowes castle are rent from top to bottom and is in great danger of falling to the ground with every cannons firing'. The only record of the castle firing a shot in anger was during the Civil War on 12 August 1642 when Humphrey Turney, Captain of Cowes Castle, 'in a furie with his own hand gave fire to one piece of ordnance and shot at the said ship the Lion' which had challenged two ships bound for Portsmouth ( the Navy had declared for Parliament and Col. Goring at Portsmouth for the King ). Turney was arrested on the 16th and the castle garrisoned by Parliamentary forces the following day. 

During the wars with France in the late18th and early 19th centuries the Island was heavily garrisoned and the castle was armed with eleven 9-pounders. After the defeat of Napoleon in 1815 the castle's defensive role lessened but in 1824 a Guide to the Watering Places stated that the castle 'though useless as a place of defence, still maintains a captain, one master and five other gunners. A sentry is always on duty here but it would be difficult to point out what he has to guard unless it be the bathers clothes'. The baths, with associated bathing machines and lodging houses, occupied the site of the present Squadron lawn and new (2000) Pavilion. 

The castle was remodelled in 1716, a plan of 1725 showing that only the rear of the tower and the ends of the wings were by that date the original Henry VIII stonework. The front of the tower had been dismantled and a more domestic front with windows added and the defensive ditch had become a garden. More alterations took place later in the 18th century and in the 19th century the comforts of the castle were upgraded to sumptuous country house level when it became the maritime residence of Lord Anglesey, Governor of the Isle of Wight and Captain of Cowes Castle, and a member of the Royal Yacht Squadron. It was following his death in 1854 that the government reviewed the future of the castle and considered demolishing it. Instead it was leased, first to Lord Conyngham and then to the Royal Yacht Squadron. 

The Royal Yacht Squadron employed the architect Anthony Salvin to improve the building 'replete with every comfort and luxury'. Salvin had trained in John Nash's office, he was recognised as the greatest authority on medieval castles and was favoured for alterations; others he worked on include Carisbrooke, Alnwick and the Tower of London. He made extensive alterations to Cowes castle, greatly increasing the accommodation and adding the Platform, a Ballroom for summer use and the western tower. The members moved in in 1858 following an inspection by Prince Albert and the Prince of Wales. Salvin's alterations did not meet with universal approval - 'Some have compared the front to a monastery and the rear of the building to a nobleman's mews, while others have declared it, from its irregular appearance, to resemble a discipline establishment' wrote the Isle of Wight Observer. 

Further changes took place in the 1920's but the last major alterations were in 1964 when the western range was adapted to accommodate the ladies. Originally only permitted to use the Squadron lawn, in 1928 the club had purchased the ballroom of Castle Rock, then owned by Rosa Lewis of Cavendish Hotel fame and now The Royal Corinthian Yacht Club, for use as a Ladies Annexe. For the 1964 alterations the Squadron was able to acquire stone from John Nash's East Cowes Castle, demolished in 1963, to ensure that the new work remained in keeping with the old. The original shape of round tower, two wings and barbican is still discernible.
From the ROYAL YACHT SQUADRON ARCHIVE INFORMATION LEAFLET NO 2 

FORT BROCKHURST
In Gosport off the A32

Like many of the massive defences which were built in the 19th century to protect the naval dockyard at Portsmouth, Fort Brockhurst was used for defensive purposes as late as World War II. This fortification is
particularly interesting in that it still retains its freshwater moat.

A central exhibition explains Prime Minister Lord Palmerston's plans to build a chain of fortresses as a defence against possible French invasion. In the event the attack never came, but the forts were put to use in the two World Wars. Fort Brockhurst is today an outstanding example of Victorian defences with its huge
parade ground, earthen gun ramps, keep and some of the original armaments. Several special events are staged here every year.
Apr-Sept, daily exc. Mon, I 0am-6pm; Oct-Mar,
10am-4pm. Tel: (0705) 581059.

FORT GILKICKER 
Stokes Bay Gosport

VIEW WEBSITE

FORT NELSON
2 miles E of Fareham off the M27 (junction I I)

Fort Nelson is one of the mighty defences built around Portsmouth in the 1860s to protect the naval dockyard from possible French attack, and is being developed by the National Royal Armouries Museum and Hampshire County Council to show the development of artillery through the ages. Exhibits range from a 20-ton bronze Dardanelles gun of 1464 to components of the Iraqi supergun which were impounded by British Customs officials in 1990.

The massive fortification includes a central tunnel, bored deep in the chalk under Portsdown Hill, and the shell-proof barrack block. The parade-ground is now used to display many of the large guns, and is also the arena for special events and firing days held during the year.

The Portsdown Artillery Volunteers, part of the Palmerston Forts Society based in Fort Nelson, regularly recreate gun drill of the 1880s, using authentic guns which represent the fort's original armament.
Easter-Nov, Sat-Sun and BHs l2-4.30pm (last tour). Tel: (0329) 233734.

FORT VICTORIA
Courtesy Hampshire Life Magazine

The Seaward remnants of Fort Victoria
(photo Ian Parker)
Courtesy Hampshire Life Magazine

Events on the Continent, and more particularly in France, in the middle of the 19th century were causing warning bells to ring in the corridors of power. In 1848, the monarchy of Louis Phillippe was cast aside by a republican mob. Much to the alarm of the British public, the resulting power vacuum was filled by a man called Napoleon, and although this one was called Louis, he was a nephew of that great hate figure, Napoleon Bonaparte.

Soon the call would go out for a strengthening of our coastal defences and the site at Sconce Point was ideal and was already the site of fortification which dated from the reign of Henry VIII. The perceived threat of an
attack on Southampton or Portsmouth made through the western approaches to the Solent during the 16th century were comparable to the threats faced in 1852 which is when the Home Secretary gave permission for the new fort to be built. There was certainly a defensive advantage to be had from protecting the narrow passage that separates Hampshire from the Isle of Wight, as at this point the distance from the Island to Hurst Castle is a mere 2,000 yards (1,829m).

A Lt. Nicholson drew up the initial plans for the fort which were probably based on designs employed whilst taking his exams at the Royal Military Academy at Woolwich in 1842. Although the rear part of the fort was demolished in 1969 it is easy to see how the triangular fortification was laid out and much of the seaward elevation remains to this day.

The construction was carried out by Edward Smith & Co. of Woolwich and work began in November 1852. In the August of 1853, a model of the fort was sent to Osbome for Prince Albert, who always took a keen interest in such things. Thereafter the fort was always referred to as Fort Victoria. Albert made a point of visiting it in person in July 1855 after work had been completed to the satisfaction of the Board of Ordnance in the
April of that year. During the visit though he complained to the Royal Engineers that the use
of concrete in a 'parados' or retaining wall at the rear of the fort was ill-advised, as he surmised that under bombardment this would shatter and injure the backs of the gunners.

When next Fort Victoria hit the news it was as a result of the tragic collision between an American liner, the St Paul, and HMS Gladiator which occurred just off the fort in a snow storm on 25th April 1918. The ramming
resulted in the deaths of 27 members of the naval ship's crew. The RN Captain only managed to save the majority of his crew by beaching his vessel on Black Rock reef, 150 yards from the fort.

In the Second World War the pier which served the fort was armed with fixed torpedo tubes which were manned by four RN petty officers. The fort itself was used as an ammunition dump for all the West Wight
batteries, as ammunition and stores could be offloaded at the pier which offered at least 18 feet of water at low tide.

Next came the floating soldiers of the RASC, who were responsible for the movement of all the army's stores around the coast and in the battle zones. They were Nos. 626 and 624 companies of No. 42 Water
Transport Unit, with the latter company equipped with 48 foot fast launches and 40 foot former air-sea rescue boats. No. 626 was equipped with 36 foot harbour launches which did sterling service off Normandy during D-
Day and even conveyed Churchill ashore soon after the first landings.

Hurst Castle from For Victoria - Hampshire and
the Isle of Wight are just 2,000 yards apart at this point
(photo Ian Parker)
Courtesy Hampshire Life Magazine

Fort Victoria last saw 'active' service during the Suez crisis of 1956 when soldiers from the Island were sent to crew Landing Craft Tanks and when the fort was hastily put on a war footing to train reservists and National Servicemen. When National Service came to an end in 1960 and with far fewer commitments for the RASC the facilities at Fort Victoria and just up the road at Golden Hill Fort were no longer needed and a final
ceremonial parade was held at Fort Victoria on February 22nd, 1962 when at 11.45am the RASC fleet ensign was struck on the battlements, four trumpeters sounded a retreat and the last troops marched out of the fort. The Isle of Wight was deprived of a regular military garrison for the first time in 300 years.

GODSHILL CASTLE (Map Ref SU166162)
A few miles south-east of Braemore

Again Godshill Castle is one of those castles of which little remains to be seen today. Though with careful looking a round motte outside a  quadrangular bailey can still be made out. It is believed it was built in 1148 by Henry de Blois when his castle at Downton in Wiltshire was captured and he needed a new base to launch an attack.

HAMBLE CASTLE

Whether Hamble castle was a real castle or just a medieval fortified wall built to defend the occupants of Hamble from frequent French raids has never been ascertained. Its foundations are only exposed in the mud at low tide now.

But it is believed that they are the remains of a 16th century fortified manorhouse known as St Andrew's Castle which was home to Sir Henry Maynwaring, Deputy Lord Warden of the Cinque Ports, who was once a pirate, in the 17th century.

HIGHCLIFFE CASTLE

This is now a great gothic ruin and was once used as a residence up to the 1950s. It was built for Lord Stuart de Rhothesay in 1830 by the architect Donthorne. Louisa, Marchioness of Waterford, who was the daughter of Lord Stuart had a "silly desire to build a house that would emulate Fonthill". It may well have been a "silly desire" but you can easily imagine days of Gothic Romance and heroic ghosts gazing back from the windows when you stand and look at it.

Lord Stuart had purchased the 'Grande Maison des Andelys' in Normandy in the year that Highcliffe Castle was built and he transferred the best parts to his new residence. This can be seen by the Early French Renaissance that surrounds the castle. The castle and grounds are now administered as a place of public recreation by Christchurch Borough Council.

HIGHCLERE CASTLE
5 Miles south of Newbury on the A34 to Winchester

Highclere castle is not really a castle but a large mansion that was remodelled between 1839 - 1842 from an original design of Sir Charles Barry. The home of the Earl of Carnarvon, it is not open to the public but views of it can be seen from nearby hills where it has been described,  "at it most romantic from this distance". It is the biggest mansion in Hampshire.

The grounds are more important historically than the castle itself. Much of  Highclere Park was designed by the famous landscape architect of them all, Capability Brown in 1775, and was described by William Cobbett in his "Rural Rides" as "the prettiest park I have ever seen."

HURST CASTLE
5 miles from Lymington off the B3058

Dating from 1541, Hurst Castle was built as part of Henry VIII's chain of defences against France. It was designed on geometrical principles, a nine-sided single storey enclosing a higher 12-sided tower.

It sits at the very tip of a long spit, protruding half-way across the stretch of water between the mainland and the Isle of Wight, and it is reached either by the Keyhaven ferry or by walking along the shingle bank from Milford.

The castle entrance is in one of the great brick wings added in the 1860s, when war with France threatened again. The castle had already been extended twice in the 19th century because of the need to
accommodate larger guns; the narrow gauge railway over the drawbridge was installed to carry heavy weapons and shells.

There have been a series of lighthouses on the spit since the 1780s (the present one was built in 1865), and at one time there was a small community living out here, complete with an inn. The army garrison only left in 1945. The property is now cared for by English Heritage.
Apr - Sept, daily 10am - 6pm, Oct - Mar, Sat - Sun 10am - 4pm Tel (0590) 642344

MERDON CASTLE

Merdon Castle was built in 1138 by Henry de Blois in a northern corner of an Iron Age fort whose earthworks are outstanding. The ditches are deep; the ramparts steep and enormous; mysterious, gnarled and ancient trees grow out of their sides and tops. What remains of the 12th century castle itself is much overgrown but in many ways all the more attractive for it.

Unfortunately, Merdon Castle is not open to the public but tucked away in a corner of Hursley Park owned by Home Farm Estates.

Henry de Blois built this and his other castles as part of his campaign in support of his brother. King Stephen. Merdon was especially useful when the two brothers were besieging the Empress Matilda in Winchester Castle. During this period Merdon was further fortified and was more of a military castle than a domestic palace.

When Henry II came to the throne he dismantled Henry de Blois' castles and Merdon was duly slighted in 1155. But it was not destroyed and was in use up to the middle of the 15th century as a palace for the Bishops of Winchester. Thereafter it was used for lay employees up to the early 17th century. That was its last recorded use and from there on it quickly deteriorated, its stone being utilised for other buildings.

In 1839 John Duthy described Merdon Castle as "shapeless ruins of thick flint walls, part of the massy donjon, which are surrounded by the remains of the ditch and ramparts of the castle, which were of circular form . . . a pleasing object."

The most impressive part left of the castle is a tower gatehouse ("the massy donjon") on the northern side. The upper floor joists are still visible. The rectangular building is a splendid and romantic ruin.

To the west of the gatehouse there is a short section of flint curtain wall and a small underground chamber whose purpose totally eludes me.

To the south of the gatehouse is a deep well. Local folklore tells the story that Cromwell lowered a box of treasure down it and that the box may only be drawn from the well in complete silence! Another tradition has it that the well is bottomless!

NORRIS CASTLE

This was one of two castles built in East Cowes in the 1790s, the other being East Cowes Castle and was built by Nash as his own up-market country residence, though it has since been demolished, but surviving pictures show it to be an elegant mansion worthy of the courtesy title of castle.

Norris Castle is an impressive and romantic castle overlooking the sea., and is a mixture of both square and round turrets and was the architect's attempt to imitate the original Norman Castles. It was built for Lord Henry Seymour when he bought Norris Farm which was named after the Elizabethan General Sir John Norris, and he employed James Wyatt to design his seaside home.

At the age of twelve, Queen Victoria stayed at the castle and was so taken by it and the area it was located in that in later years she tried to by it, but at that time it was owned by the newspaper tycoon Thomas Bell and he wanted such a high price for it that she bought the adjacent site and Osborne House was constructed there.

Inside the castle is more like a stately home than a castle, with rich and ornate furniture. The cellars are "mysterious" and have a chilly atmosphere to them but arte enormous. Wyatt dug out a large pit before erecting the castle especially for them.

The castle is not open to the public but between 7th July and 11th September on certain days of the week.

NETLEY CASTLE
Little remains of the old coastal fort that was built by Henry VIII. It was built in 1542 and was a single storey building with a strong crenellated parapet and archways on the seaside.

But today one can still find remains on the shore that were incorporated into Netley Castle Convalescence Home which can be viewed quite easily from Netley Beach.

The castle was used by the military up until 1627 and was transformed in 1857 to the present building with its Gothic tower by the architect Sedding. But what attracts the visitor more to Netley is the 13th century Abbey which stands opposite Netley Castle. This was converted by Sir William Paulet into a mansion following the Dissolution of the Monasteries in 1536.

ODIHAM CASTLE

Nestling amid pine trees in a bend of the River Whitewater is my
favourite Hampshire Castle — Odiham. There are two ways of reaching
it. Perhaps the better route is via the Public House at North Warnborough (I think it is called The Swan, but my memory is not what it was). After being suitably refreshed, the reader should cross the road (looking both ways), walk down to the Basingstoke Canal and go back under the bridge, keep walking for about ten minutes and the castle is on your right. The other route is to take the A32 through Odiham, go down the hill to North Warnborough. At the roundabout turn left and after thirty yards turn right down a narrow lane until you come to a swing
bridge over the Basingstoke Canal, walk up the towpath and the Castle is
on your left after a short walk.

The castle was built between 1207 and 1212 for King John at a recorded cost of over £1,000. It is often spoken of as King John's favourite castle and it is true that he stayed there on twenty-four separate occasions but never for any significant length. The longest time he stayed there was, in fact, five days.

What remains of the castle is an octagonal keep, the only one in England, with angle buttresses. At ground level there was a store room with two rooms above it. It has been described as "an eminently picturesque object of flint with large shapeless holes for windows".

Odiham Castle was the scene in 1216 of a notable siege when it was defended for fifteen days by thirteen men against an army with siege engines. What happened was that, as most people know, King John had trouble with many of his barons who duly appealed for help to Philip II, the King of France. He was none too interested in their problems but his son, the Dauphin, Prince Louis, proved somewhat keener and quickly landed in England with 140 knights and 7,000 men. Castle after castle fell to this force — Canterbury, Reigate, Guildford and Farnham. On 14th June. 1216 Louis arrived in Winchester, which he duly burned. Winchester's two castles held out for ten days further before they too
were taken. Louis moved on to Portchester which surrendered straightaway, then glowing with success he moved to capture Odiham. This part of the story has been called by the historian F. W. Maitland "the most brilliant episode of the war". That the castle withstood the siege for so long may be attributed to two main factors — the bravery of its defenders and the wide moat which surrounded the Inner Bailey. When Odiham finally capitulated, its defenders, three knights, three esquires and seven soldiers, marched out with the full honours of war.
They had surrendered only on the most generous terms.

In 1224 the castle was granted to Princess Eleanor, the sister of Henry II, as a wedding present on her marriage to William Marshall. When the latter died, Eleanor took a vow of chastity — but this did not stop her remarrying and Simon de Montfort was her second husband. The castle saw some action during this period as de Monfort was a supporter of the dissident barons.

In Edward II's reign Odiham's good defences were once more put to the test. At this time Robert le Ewer was the owner of the castle, and rebelled against the King. The problem was sorted out for a while during which period Robert further strengthened Odiham's defences. Then Robert rebelled again. While he was away from the castle it was taken by the King's forces and successfully withstood Robert's attempts at recapture.

In 1322 John St. John of Basing was granted custody ofOdiham. Edward III stayed at the castle a number of times and was so taken with it that it was granted to his wife, Queen Philippa, who spent a great deal of money renovating it. The repairs took four years and involved fifty workmen. The most important repair was to a chamber known as the 'Ledenechambre' which cost £37 2s 11 '/2d to put right. Even so it had to be restored again in 1399!

 In 1340 King David II of Scotland launched his claim to the English throne. Six years later he was captured at the Battle of Neville's Cross. He spent eleven years imprisoned in England and his final years of incarceration were at Odiham. Sir William Trussel was placed in charge of the prisoner and the castle. Both were maintained well and the former was escorted back to his country once the peace treaty was signed.

From 1377 Odiham was in the hands of various uncaring owners who let it fall into such decay that by 1402 Henry IV commented of Odiham, "our castle and the lodge . . . are very ruinous". So saying he made arrangements for its restoration — but to no avail! By the end of that century the castle was probably beyond repair.

When John had had the castle built it was in an excellent location between Winchester and London and Windsor, all important medieval centres, but by the 16th century Winchester was no longer a vital political centre and, therefore, Odiham was not needed as a stopping place. Furthermore the castle was uncomfortable, inconvenient, delapidated and generally far too expensive to maintain. Thus, its period of decay began. Some of the stones were used to build local buildings, while the weather and weeds did the rest.

In the 1970's Hampshire County Council cleaned the keep of the rambling and climbing plants. The result is debateable. Odiham looks a more aesthetically pleasing ruin in some of the eighteenth and nineteenth century prints in circulation. All would have been forgiven had their work gone further there must be many outbuildings still hidden!

PORTCHESTER CASTLE
3 mites E of Fareham off the A27

Portchester, sheltered in the natural harbour which still protects Britain's Navy, was recognized for its strategic importance centuries ago, and the massive castle which looks out from the water's edge is a
permanent reminder of this.

It was the Romans who first established a fort here, and the 18ft walls which still stand are regarded by historians as among the finest remaining examples of Roman fortification in northern Europe. Within the vast outer walls are the later additions. The large keep was added in the late 12th century and the external walls are extremely well preserved. Also within the castle grounds is the parish church of Portchester, St Mary's, a fine example of Norman architecture. It formed part of an Augustinian priory founded in 1133 by Henry I.

The rise in the importance of Portsmouth led to Portchester's decline, and the castle is now in the care of English Heritage.
Apr - Sept, daily exc. Mon 10am - 6pm, Oct - Mar, 10am - 4pm Tel (0705) 378291

PORTSMOUTH CASTLE

Apart from Southsea Castle (which is dealt with later) there is not a Portsmouth Castle as such but Portsmouth has other offerings to the castle lover. There are some interesting ramparts built as sea defences — unfortunately nothing remains of the early 15th century fort. For those whose interests are really in all forms of military architecture the 18th and 19th century forts are worth visiting. 

Portsmouth was founded by Richard I and the dock for the royal galleys had a fortified wall. A house was erected for Richard at Kingshall Green in 1194 and was duly fortified with a ditch (Pipe Rolls).

In 1386 a Royal Commission was set up to look at coastal defences (q.v. Southampton). Unfortunately Portsmouth was not as wealthy as Southampton and the recommendations of the Royal Commission were not carried out to the same extent. However, the 1415 War with France necessitated further defensive building.

Most of what is visible now stems from the 17th century when the architect Sebastien De Vauban's defensive theories were put into practice.

So what does actually remain? There is a point battery and a square tower. The latter was originally built in 1494 (some of the masonry can still be seen). In the late 16th century the tower was reduced in height and used to store magazines (the munitions kind!). The tower includes a built-in bust of Charles I made by Hubrecht le Seur in 1635 which commemorates the King's return to Portsmouth in 1623 from his journey to France and Spain. In 1665 the tower was partly rebuilt under Sir Bernard de Gomme, the Dutch architect. Most of what we see now are the Purbeck stone walls erected in 1827.

By the harbour entrance there is another tower — the Round Tower. This has three storeys. It was rebuilt as part of Henry VIII's coastal defence system, though only the ground storey of the present building dates from that time. Originally it had eight gunparts (unfortunately now blocked up) and it is easy to see why in Henry's time John Leiand described it as "a mightie chain of yron". The tower was virtually rebuilt in 1683 at the same time as a second tower was added to the north east. Five years later a battery was built alongside. This was subsequently rebuilt in 1870, and is known as Frederick's Battery.

POWDERHAM CASTLE Map reference is SU803469
It is east of Barley Pound (south-east of Basingstoke).

There is a small low motte here and some flint foundations. It was probably nothing more than a Norman timber castle and may even have been siegeworks built in the battle between the Bishop of Winchester and Stephen in 1147. 

SANDOWN CASTLE

Don't become needlessly excited when you see Sandham Castle on the Sandown map. It was built by the Council as part of a children's Adventure Playground. Nonetheless it does have two historical precursors. The original Sandham Castle was built 1537-40 and was one of Henry VIII's coastal forts, intended to work in conjunction with Yarmouth Castle. It protected the only feasible landing-place on the eastern coast of the Isle of Wight.

It was quadrangular with four towers, one at each corner. There was a bastion, in the shape of an arrow, on the landside to give extra protection to the land walls. On the sea side a gun platform was built and there was also a landing stage. It was here that in 1618 timber arrived to repair the pier and the platform, both having been subjected to sea damage.

Soon after Sandham Castle had been built, the French landed at Sandown. Local troops led by Sir Richard Worsley, the Captain of the Island, forced the invaders to flee. Following this, Sandham Castle was more strongly fortified and several times repulsed French invasions during the rest of the century. The Castle garrison comprised a Captain, undercaptain, thirteen soldiers, a porter, a master gunner and seven other gunners.

Although attacking forces were never successful in capturing the Castle (including pirateers during the American War of Independence), barely a century later it had been ruined by the sea and was demolished in 1632. The site of the Henrician castle is now underwater. The stone was used to build a second Sandham Castle and also for repairs and renovations at Yarmouth Castle. By 1649 the new castle was finished. It was a squat, square building with a bastion at each angle and surrounded by a wet moat. Inside there were three main buildings; two barracks and the governor's house. At the same time other forts were built at St. Helens. Bembridge and Whitecliff Bay.

Although Sandham Castle 11 was eighty feet from the sea, the latter continued to erode the crumbling Sandown coastline and it was not long before the 17th century foundations were being undermined. Extensive and expensive repairs were undertaken at the end of the 18th century. These were to no avail and in 1864 the castle was demolished and Granite Fort erected further from the sea! This took five years to build and now is home to Sandown Zoo!

SOUTHAMPTON CASTLE

Although little remains of the castle itself, Southampton Castle once played a significant role in history. A motte and bailey castle with a timber palisade had been built by 1153 and the site on which it was placed clearly had been used before as the discovery of a coin of Offa on the motte shows. The motte itself was an artificial one and the timber was soon replaced by a stone curtain wall. At this time the population of Southampton was about 1,000, most of whom were Normans. By the end of the century the castle was completed as well as a section of wall partly enclosing the town. 

The Bargate, the modern emblem of the city, was begun in 1175. The Castle itself included bridges, quarters for visiting royalty, the castle quay and a shell keep. Many of its citizens were wealthy merchants: part of Richard I's ransom after his Crusades was paid by a wealthy Southampton merchant, Gervase le Riche.

However, by 1286 the castle was described as ruinous and had been of no use in the repeated French attacks on this busy port.

Important repairs were carried out in Richard II's time. The tower was rebuilt and it was now cylindrical and much taller. This had been prompted by the threat of another French invasion. The construction of the keep was supervised by the new Governor of the castle, Sir John Arundel.

Henry V often stayed at Southampton castle and from there on 28th July, 1415 he wrote to his "cousin and adversary" the King of France from "our castle of Hampton by the shore of the sea".

Another royal visitor was Queen Elizabeth who stayed there in 1569. This was probably the peak of the castle's life. Leiand, writing in the 1540's, called the tower the 'Glorie' of the castle, and wrote that the castle generally was "both large, fair, and very stronge, both by worke and the site of it". Elizabeth issued a writ concerning the Mayor of Coventry from "our tower of Southampton". John Speed in the same century described the tower as "most beautiful in forme circular, and wall within wall, the foundation upon a hill so topped that it cannot be ascended but by stairs".

Even by the end of the 16th century the castle was falling into decay. Early in the next century the remaining ruins, ditches and the site were sold into private ownership. Little is known of this period in the castle's history but it is clear that the remains were badly neglected. Some of the stones were used to repair the Town Walls.

In 1804 the castle ruin was bought by the Marquis of Lansdowne who used all the stones left to build a mock Gothic castle. This stood for fourteen years before being demolished. In 1822 the height of the motte was decreased and today the site of the castle is 'marked' by a tall block of flats (Lansdown Hill). In 1902 commercial developments ruined a pleasant walk along the castle and town walls by the side of the river Test estuary.

There are a few remaining features of the original castle and much of the fortified town walls, towers and gates.

Let us begin with the castle. A section of the bailey wall survives on the Western Shore, and is easily recognisible. If you look up carefully you will see near the top of the wall, by the corner, an overhanging hole — this was a garderobe — used by the sentries. Between two of the buttresses a door marks the entrance to one of the two castle vaults. The other one has unfortunately collapsed. If you wish to see inside there are daily guided tours round the city which include a visit to the vault.

The tours set off from the Bargate in the main street, and details of times are always available in the Information Centre, a short distance away in the Above Bar shopping precinct. The vault is shaped like a barrel. It is 55' long, 20' wide and 25' high. Built about 1200 into the gravel cliff, it was used mainly to store wine for the castle and elsewhere. When Hugh de Spencer was Constable of Portchester Castle he often bought his wine from Southampton. Once the wine was sour and when the merchants refused to buy it back, thirty-four of them were
imprisoned at Portchester.

In the early 1970's a stone drain was uncovered by excavation on the castle site. It appears to have been built in the middle of the 13th century to serve the royal apartments. It is an ingenious piece of work, excellently constructed and flushed by. tidal action.

A watergate is also preserved. This was built in the 14th century and gave access from the castle to the quay. It is likely that the gate was blocked up in the Civil War.

The Entrance Gate of the castle was excavated in the early 1960's and shown by Mr. Aberg (Southampton Museums Department's full-time archaeologist at that time) "to be superior workmanship to that on the contemporary town wall". The shape of the twin drum towers which flanked the entrance may still be seen in Castle Lane.

Most of the remaining town walls were built just after 1339 when the King's councillors devised plans for the strengthening of Southampton. Part of their plans involved the inclusion of a number of merchants' houses into the wall. The merchants objected to losing direct access to the sea from their property but all objections were over-ruled and defence was given absolute priority.

A number of towers in the town wall survive and are well-preserved. Some of the walls are 6' thick, and in places 35' high.Four towers, which were once incorporated in the walls, survive.  God's House Gate and Tower may be found in the south-east corner of the walls — in Winkle Street. It now houses an Archaeological Museum. Directly north of it marking the north-east corner of the walls and parallel with the Bargate is Polymond Tower, named after a Mayor of Southampton. In the north-west corner is Arundel Tower nicknamed Windwhistle Tower by those who had to stand duty on it. It is sixty feet high. The gun platform next to the tower was built in the 16th century. A little to the south is Prince Edward Tower, also given a vivid nickname — Catchcold Tower. Note the gunports which were some of the first to be built in England.

Apart from the Castle Watergate there are two other gates worth viewing. The Westgate is just to the south of the ill-named King John's Palace (which was a Norman merchant's house and may be seen in conjunction with Tudor House in St. Michael's Square). This gate was built in mid-14th century, shortly after the raid of 1338. It had a double portcullis and the visitor should spot the slots for this in the archway as well as 'murder-holes' and some rare sideways-on gunports.

The 'Glorie' of the city nowadays is the Bargate which was the main entrance into Southampton. As mentioned earlier, the Bargate goes back to 1175 and the original stone arch (of three spans) may still be viewed in the main passageway. In 1275 round towers were added, either side of the gate. The castellated effect and the buttresses were added in the 15th century. For many centuries the Bargate was the Civic Centre, then it became a meeting place for the City Merchants before being used as Law Courts with a police station downstairs. After the Second World War the upstairs hall was transformed into a museum.

SOUTHSEA CASTLE

Southsea Castle is another of the Henrician coastal forts built between the years 1539 and 1544. Although it has been continually altered and added to during its history it retains a number of original features. The keep is much the same as when it was built. The lower walls and rectangular gunports are original although the upper walls of the keep were rebuilt in 1814 at the same time as extra brickwork was erected inside. Southsea Castle is more angular and has more straight sides than
most of Henry VIII*s coastal forts. There is a deep, wide, dry moat and the glacis (outer earthwork) was added by the Dutchman Sir Bernard de Gomme (qv Portsmouth) who also had the bastions restructured and a covered way erected. These alterations in 1665 were commemorated by the royal arms of Charles II being placed over the castle entrance.

The castle was damaged by fire twice in the early 17th century.

At the start of the 19th century Southsea Castle was enlarged and a number of alterations were made. By 1850 Southsea Castle had been transformed into a Victorian fort, and was used by the military up to the 1960's. The visitor to the castle will find the caponier (bomb-proof tunnel) of interest; through it the defenders could get from the main body of the castle to the counterscarp gallery from which any enemies in the dry moat could be fired upon.

Southsea Castle was one of the coastal forts which Henry VIII himself helped design. Perhaps that was why Sir Anthony Knyvet sycophantically commented in October 1544 that ^the device and fashion thereof is strange and marvelously praised by all men that have seen it." By the time of its completion the chances of a joint invasion by France and Spain had considerably lessened. Nonetheless Henry's programme of coastal defence went on.

In 1545 a French fleet sailed into the Solent. It wisely kept out of the firing range from Southsea Castle and went on to land on the Isle of Wight with varying degrees of success. There was a skirmish with the Royal Fleet which Henry watched from Southsea Castle. The most notable casualty of this affair was the flagship, the Mary Rose.

For the next hundred years the castle had a quiet uneventful history — probably the most important event being Edward VI's stay in 1552. 

Even in the Civil War Southsea Castle's contribution was insignificant. It started off in the hands of Colonel George Goring, the Governor of Portsmouth, who declared for the King in 1642 (after having extracted £5,000 from Parliament to pay the garrison's wages and refortify the castle). Parliament's riposte was to send five ships to Portsmouth harbour to cut off supplies and to bombard Portsmouth from a battery half a mile away at Gosport. The bombardment destroyed a church which the Royalists were using and forced them to dig a trench "that at the sight of the firing of our ordnance, they might leap down into it". The Royalists had less luck. They "shot incessantly for fourteen days and nights in which they shot at least 300 bulletts. They killed only one man."

The Parliamentarians waited until they learnt from their spies that the Commander of Southsea Castle "had more drinke in his head than was befitting", then at night climbed the castle walls and turned the Royalists' canons on Portsmouth which quickly surrendered.

SPITBANK FORT
Off Portsmouth.

Spitbank Fort, rising from the sea a mile off Portsmouth, is a monumental example of Victorian engineering and architecture. It was bought from the Government in 1980 and parts have been converted to living accommodation available for rental.

Most, however, has been restored to its original use. You can see how the 156 men who manned the fort lived, using coal ranges, oil lamps and hammocks. Replicas of the huge 38 ton guns and 8001b shells
are on view and you can explore the maze of passages and rooms which make up the castle. One passageway, 400ft long, can be investigated by the courageous with just the light of a candle.

Boat trips from Gosport Pontoon and Clarence Pier at Southsea run every 75 minutes, weather permitting, and take about 15 minutes. For the ferry trip and a guided tour you should allow at least two hours.
Easter-Sept, daily exc. Mon l0am-5pm.Tel: (0329) 664286 or (0831) 608383.

VENTNOR CASTLE
Sadly Steephill Castle was pulled down in 1964 and there is nothing left
to see. It was built either in the late 1820's or in the 1830's.A 19th century print showing Ventnor Castle towering above Steephill Cove, can be found showing what a fine castle it was.

WARBLINGTON CASTLE

If you are on the A27 between Portsmouth and Chichester look out for the sign to Warblington Church — the castle is north of the church set amid farm buildings, unfortunately on private grounds, but can be seen quite clearly from the road.

Although called a castle it was, in fact, a large moated house erected round a courtyard in the early 16th century by Margaret Pole, Countess of Salisbury. It seems there was a manor house on the site before this was undertaken as a licence to crenellate was granted in 1340.

Margaret Pole was executed by Henry VIII in 1540 at the Tower of London. She opposed Henry's divorce of Catherine of Aragon. She was a proud and principled lady and refused to kneel and was beheaded
standing up!

Warblington Castle was wrecked in the Civil War by the Parliamentary force.

What survives is the magnificent octagonal turret of the gatehouse, which was deliberately left as a landmark to ships. It is a brick building of at least three storeys with the chimneys clearly visible. The gatehouse's arched entrance is adjacent to the turret and the stone remains of the drawbridge support are in the moat outside the entrance.

WHERWELL

There was never a castle at Wherwell (pronounced 'Hurrell') but in 1140 an attempt was made to turn the abbey into a fortified building. This failed for in 1141 Stephen's troops were fighting Matilda's who were defending the crossing of the Test at Wherwell. Her men fled into the abbey but to no avail. The buildings were set ablaze, her troops killed and the nuns driven elsewhere. Some earthworks are traceable next to the Parish Church but no traces now remain of the Abbey buildings although there are some statues and stone remains in the church.

WINCHESTER CASTLE

It is an ancient legend that the Castle of Winchester was built by the renowned King Arthur in A.D. 523. This cannot be accepted and has since been disproved, there being evidence that it was constructed in the reign of the Conqueror: it certainly was in existence in the reign of Henry I. The Norman Castle consisted of a tower 52 ft. square and had walls 14 ft. in thickness. Here, for some years, Domesday Book was carefully guarded.

The later castle had round towers thirty or forty feet wide, walls eight to ten feet in thickness and subterranean passages radiating in three directions. Henry of Winchester was born here and resided at the Castle.

On the parapet of Winchester Castle Edward I exhibited part of the body of the last native Prince of Wales. Isabella also spiked the head of Despencer, Earl of Winchester and displayed it on the walls of the Castle. Edmund of Woodstock also suffered death at Winchester, where he was executed on the Castle Green.

In the Civil War Winchester Castle was held for the King until Cromwell appeared with a besieging force, effecting its capture after a short siege. In common with many other strongholds in England, Winchester Castle was ruthlessly demolished by Parliamentary decree. Fortunately the Great Hall has been preserved to us and represents an interesting specimen of Early English architecture with here and there remains of Norman.

The early Parliaments were held in the Hall and many memorable trials were conducted within its walls. 

In the old chapel of the Castle, now the County Hall, is Arthur's Round Table. Although described as a table, it is in reality a table top. It hangs on the wall at the Eastern end of the Hall and is described as consisting of stout oaken planks, measuring eighteen feet in diameter: in several places it is perforated by bullets, Cromwell's men probably finding it useful as a target.

The table is painted with a figure representing King Arthur, and is divided into twenty-four sections, each section bearing the name of one of his twenty-four trusty knights, as recorded in the romances of the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries.

King Arthur's table was, by some, believed to have actually been made and placed in Winchester Castle by himself, but this can hardly be accepted. Henry VIII, however, exhibited it to the Emperor Charles V as the actual table of King Arthur. Henry had the table painted as we see it to-day, owing to which the costumes and characters depicted are in the style of that period.

At the beginning of the sixteenth century many among the learned doubted whether this had really and truly been the table of the renowned King Arthur. From evidence collected since it is abundantly clear that the table was introduced into this country by King Stephen. In the twelfth and succeeding centuries, knights who were accustomed to perform feats of chivalry, used to assemble at a table of this description to avoid disputes for precedency. From this usage the tournaments themselves obtained the name of Round Table, and are so-called in the records of the times.

Arthur's Round Table was mentioned three centuries ago by a historian who records that the Emperor Charles V saw it, he then goes on to state that many marks of its antiquity had been destroyed, and the names of the knights had been written in afresh and the table with its ornaments newly repaired. It is agreed that this relic of former times is of a date quite as early as Stephen, circa 1135. The Round Table now exhibited at Winchester Castle is, therefore, at least eight hundred years old.

The reign of Arthur, the celebrated "British King," seems to have been taken on the authority of the no less celebrated Geoffrey of Monmouth, the monkish historian in the reign of King Stephen. It is sufficient to add here that, besides the old romance, there is a ballad called "The Noble Acts of King Arthur, and the Knights of the Round Table, with the Valiant Achievements of Sir Lancelot de Lake" (collection of Old Ballads, published in 1726).

ADDRESS:
THE GREAT HALL Castle avenue, Winchester SO23 8UJ Telephone +44 01962 846476

WOLVESEY CASTLE

Although described by John Duthyas "a shapeless mass of ruins", Wolvesey is well worth a visit. Unfortunately the public may only enter it with a Guided Tour of Winchester party. However, if that is not convenient and a distant view is sufficient it may be reached from College Street or seen from the southern end of the riverside walk known as the Weirs.

Wolvesey Castle was built in 1110 by Henry of Blois, King Stephen's brother and Bishop of Winchester. The keep was added in 1138. On the ascension of Henry II to the throne, like Henry of Blois' other castles, it was destroyed. However, between 1158 and 1171 it was rebuilt as more of a palace than a castle. Basically there was a square courtyard, two towers and a long narrow great hall. The ruined keep still stands and the north end of the hall wall survives.

WOOTTON ST. LAWRENCE

At Woodgarston Farm, north-east of Basingstoke, there are earthworks which suggest a castle once existed here. The ringwork with traces of a bailey have been profferred by some scholars as all that is left of the 'Castle of the Wood* captured by Stephen's troops in 1147. According to the 'Victoria County History', Wootton St. Lawrence was called 'Woodcastle' in the 14th century.

YARMOUTH CASTLE

Yarmouth Castle is in excellent repair. It is to be found near the ferry terminal. It was built for Henry VIII in 1545 by George Mill, partly with stone from Quarr Abbey, at a recorded cost of £1,000. Henry's coat of arms may still be seen over the East Gate.

This was immediately after a French raid on the Isle of Wight and the castle was built on the site of a church that the French had destroyed (probably in a previous raid in the reign of Richard II). At the same time the fortifications at Sandown Castle were strengthened. When the castle was first built it had three cannons and twelve smaller guns. In Queen Elizabeth's reign it was manned by three gunners who were paid 6d per day. Further improvements were made in 1588, the year of the Spanish
Armada.

In 1623 extra accommodation was built, the parapet was raised and the castle walls reinforced. The latter repairs were made with stone from the destroyed Sandown.

During the Civil War Captain Barnaby Burley held Yarmouth Castle with a small Royalist force but the Parliamentary army only had to show itself to secure an immediate surrender.

The Restoration of Charles II in 1660 saw an immediate reduction of the garrison at Yarmouth from seventy to four. This was one of several major changes made at this time by Sir Robert Holmes, Captain of the Island. These changes included the filling in of the moat which was originally on the landward side where the George Hotel now stands. The old entrance to the castle was blocked and a new entrance made. The guns were now mainly placed on the seaward side and another battery was added. Later Sir Robert wished to hold Yarmouth Castle for James II but the castle's garrison gave their support to William of Orange.

Even during the Napoleonic Wars only one gunner was employed. He was abetted by a handful of soldiers. At this time (1813) some more repairs were made.

There is nothing outstanding about Yarmouth Castle; its Great Hall is only the size of a large lounge, but it certainly retains Tudor atmosphere and the Gunners' lodgings are particularly interesting.

The castle retained its use as a military fortification up to the 1870's. In 1885 it became a coastguards' lockout and since has happily passed to the Department of Environment.